Nestled on the edge of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field in Argentina you’ll find El Calafate, a small town that packs a big punch. As the gateway to Los Glaciares National Park, home to the massive Perito Moreno Glacier and a whole host of other natural wonders it’s the perfect base to explore this corner of Patagonia.

From gauchos and Patagonian lamb to glaciers and petrified forests, in this blog I share everything you need to know about visiting this bucket-list destination over four days. Read on to discover my tried and tested complete itinerary with restaurant, café and accommodation recommendations along the way. Let’s go!

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1. Getting to El Calafate
2. Best time to visit El Calafate
3. Is four days in El Calafate too long?
4. Day 1: Trek across Perito Moreno Glacier & visit local breweries
5. Day 2: Kayak La Leona river to the petrified forest & spot dinosaur bones
6. Day 3: Ride horses in the mountains at a traditional estancia & hike to watch condors fly
7. Day 4: Spot flamingos on Lago Argentino, explore Reserva Laguna Nimez, shop artisanal crafts & taste calafate berries
8. Best places to eat & drink
9. Best places to stay
10. What to pack for El Calafate
11. How much a trip to El Calafate costs

Getting to El Calafate

If your first question is actually where on earth is El Calafate and how do I get there…? The answer, you’ll be reassured to hear, is actually pretty easy! As you can see from the map above, El Calafate is located towards the southern tip of Argentina and reached by the local El Calafate international airport that has direct services from other Argentinian cities including Buenos Aires, Ushuaia, Córdoba and Bariloche.

We flew from Ushuaia up to El Calafate and it only took 1 hour and 20 minutes. Once at the airport, you can book a shuttle transfer for £9.50 into the centre of town 26km away or directly to your accommodation. This is a great airport shuttle option you can book in advance here.

If you’re traveling from El Chalten or the Chilean side of Patagonia then the easiest way to get to El Calafate is by bus. From Puerto Natales, the bus will take just over 6 hours and costs around £27. You can book your tickets in advance here which leave from the main bus station. The bus will take you through passport controls on the Chile / Argentina border so you don’t need to worry about navigating it yourself.

If you’re coming from El Chalten, the bus will take just under 3 hours and cost around £25. Again, you can book your tickets in advance here. Just note, in peak seasons these buses do fill up so try to book your seats as far in advance as you can!

Best time to visit El Calafate

Now you know how to get there, when’s the best time to go? As you can see from the chart below, during winter in June to August the temperatures get pretty cold and in April and May, the rain sets in so I’d avoid those months. Instead travel in spring or summer from mid-September to March.

Just bear in mind the busiest period for tourists is December to February when prices may be higher and more of the activities will get booked up. Personally, I visited at the end of September and found the weather to be not too cold with sunny days and little rain. So consider booking your trip in the spring shoulder season (September – November) for a balance of better weather without the crowds.

Month	Average Daily High	Average Daily Low	Average Days of Rain
January	16°C	5°C	5
February	15°C	5°C	4
March	13°C	3°C	5
April	10°C	1°C	8
May	5°C	-2°C	8
June	3°C	-4°C	6
July	2°C	-5°C	7
August	4°C	-3°C	6
September	8°C	-2°C	5
October	11°C	0°C	5
November	13°C	3°C	4
December	15°C	4	5

Is four days in El Calafate too long?

Now before we get into the full itinerary, you might be wondering if four days in El Calafate is too long, or maybe even not enough? From my experience, I would say four days is the perfect length of time to enjoy the lovely town and incredible nature in the area.

You’ll see lots of tours advertising a one day stop in El Calafate just to see Perito Moreno Glacier and while that’s definitely a must-see sight, the town has a lot more to offer that you’d miss out on by only spending a day here. So if you can, I’d recommend staying for the full four days so you can experience the following wonders…

Day 1: Trek across Perito Moreno Glacier & visit local breweries

Starting out strong on your first day in El Calafate, I’d recommend heading straight to the most famous and jaw-dropping sight – Perito Moreno Glacier. Then take it easy in the afternoon at a local brewery to get your first taste of Patagonian beer.

Trek, kayak or boardwalk around Perito Moreno Glacier

It’s the most loved (and visited) sight in town for good reason. Enormous Petito Moreno Glacier is breathtaking and so unique in that you can get so close to it from land. A series of boardwalks from the visitor centre take you right up along the front of the glacier where you can actually hear the ice moving and cracking.

When it comes to exploring the park, you have a few different options depending on what you’re most interested in and your budget.

Transport only to the glacier: If you’re on a tight budget or would prefer to just enjoy exploring the park boardwalks on your own then this is the perfect option. The tour provider will pick you up outside your accommodation and take you right to the glacier visitor centre and then drop you back at your accommodation around three hours later. There’s also the option to add on a one hour boat tour right up close to the glacier for an extra charge. We chose this option and the service was perfect – on time, easy and super friendly.

Glacier trekking: If you can afford it, the ultimate way to explore the glacier is to actually trek across it. This incredible experience will take you onto the ice sheet and through unique ice formations. Your guide will pick you up from your accommodation and take you to the glacier where you’ll board a boat to get up close to the ice and strap on your cramp ons ready to disembark and trek. If I could only do one tour in El Calafate, I’d do this one.

Kayak around Perito Moreno: Another unique way to explore the glacier is to kayak in the bay around icebergs. Again, this is a once in a lifetime activity that’s an investment but in my opinion worth it. You get all the same transport to and from the visitor centre as well as access to walk the boardwalks after 1.5 hours of kayaking the bright blue glacial waters. Just take a look at some of the traveller photos to see why this is a five star activity!

What to pack for Perito Moreno Glacier

Water & snacks: There’s a really nice small café and full restaurant at the glacier so if you have time and you don’t want to pack your own lunch you can head there for food. To save money we took a packed lunch of some sandwiches and just got a coffee at the café to enjoy. Either way, it’s likely to be a long day out so I’d recommend packing extra snacks and of course some water to stay hydrated.

Warm clothing: Even if the sun is shining, the glacier and surrounding area still gets pretty cold and the wind can pick up quickly. So make sure you have layers, a warm jacket, hat and gloves just in case!

Entrance fee: To enter the glacier park, you’ll need to pay the entrance fee. This is generally not covered by tour providers and so it’s good to bear that in mind when thinking about costs. Adult entry is $30,000 ARS which is around £27 and can be paid when you arrive with credit/debit cards or cash (Argentine Pesos not US Dollars). So make sure you have enough money to cover that extra cost, you can learn more about the tariff here.

Sip beer at local breweries

After a day on the ice, you’ll be ready to sit back and relax. One of the best spots to do that is a local brewery! El Calafate has a strong brewing scene with lots of great options in the centre of town where you can taste local beers and soak up the atmosphere. Here are a few of my favourites…

La Zorra Calafate: The first taproom in El Calafate and named after the female fox, La Zorra was probably our favourite spot. Right on the main Avenue del Libertador you’ll see their striking building with their distinctive fox logo calling you in to taste their cold beers and maybe order a tasty burger too…

Cerveza Patagonia: For more music and a livelier crowd, head to Cerveza Patagonia. With lots of indoor and outdoor seating as well as a full dinner menu there’s something for everyone.

La Fábrica Cervecería (only open in summer): Set in a beautiful old red building you’ll find Calafate Brewery where you can sip the latest brews under the string lights in their pretty garden. If you get hungry you can also order a wood-fired pizza, bar snacks and dessert!

The Wine Shop: More of a wine drinker than beer? No problem, there’s also a brilliant wine shop in town. Stop by to pick up a bottle or enjoy a wine tasting with the owner to sample the best Argentinian wines.

Day 2: Kayak La Leona river to the petrified forest & spot dinosaur bones

On day two, if you haven’t already, it’s time to take to the water and see one of the most unique landscapes on the planet.

This is La Leona river that flows 50km though Los Glaciares National Park winding its way into Lago Argentino. You can kayak on the pristine bright blue water down to the edge of La Leona’s petrified forest. Now I know I’ve said a lot of these landscapes are so unique but this really tops the list!

The area is covered with the remains of petrified tree trunks and fossils from 70 million years ago. You’ll also see plenty of dinosaur bones poking out of the rocks or even just lying on the surface, perfectly preserved! Then stop for a picnic lunch provided by your guides to take it all in. This is truly the ideal trip for your second day in town to give you the best flavour of El Calafate’s nature and history.

You can book this tour here.

What to pack for La Leona

Sunglasses & buff: The stepped landscape around the river and petrified forest can get especially windy. To save getting sand or grit in your eyes or mouth make sure you bring sunglasses and if you have one, a buff. This will just give your face a little more protection from the elements!

Day 3: Ride horses in the mountains at a traditional estancia & hike to watch condors fly

On your third day in El Calafate you’ll experience another side of Patagonian culture – estancias and gauchos. With time afterwards to find the perfect spot to look for the biggest bird in the Andes, the infamous condor.

Trek on horseback across Cerro Frías

In the morning, experience classic gaucho culture at Estancia Alice. These are essentially large Patagonian cattle ranches where gauchos handle their cattle and develop their horse-taming skills. They’re a big part of Argentine and especially Patagonian culture and played an important role in the local economy and food production.

Today you can visit one such estancia and go horse riding across the Cerro Frías mountainside and surrounding plains. This is such a lovely experience, bonding with your horse and taking a relaxed ride to enjoy the stunning views and learn more about gaucho life. Then you’ll head back to the estancia for a traditional lamb or veggie stew lunch with a glass of malbec of course. And don’t worry, you don’t need to be an experienced rider to do this (or even to have ever ridden a horse) – it’s super gentle and you can go at your own pace. Some in our group had horses themselves and wanted to gallop while the rest of us just enjoyed the walk.

You can book the horse riding tour I did here.

If horse riding isn’t your thing, why not explore the area on a 4×4 jeep tour or zip line across the mountains – there’s something for every adventure style!

Hike above town to watch condors fly

In the afternoon, take a little hike above El Calafate for the best chance of seeing the biggest birds in South America – Andean condors. You won’t believe how big these birds are until you see them for yourself. Especially up close, their 10ft wingspans are just huge and you can hear the air rustling their feathers as they glide on the wind.

The best spot we found to watch them in El Calafate was on the hill behind the town. Walk towards Cerro Calafate which is the biggest hill you can reach from the centre of town. Just be warned the path isn’t the easiest to follow as it’s not overly well marked and the higher you go the more difficult the terrain. But in our experience, you don’t need to get all the way to the top to see some great views and get closer to condors.

We made it half way up and stopped when we felt the trail became too much of a scramble for our liking. From here we were still level with some of the condors flying into spots on the rock face and were able to see four condors only a few metres away in the air. This was a really magical moment and shows you often don’t have to go far to see incredible sights in Patagonia!

Day 4: Spot flamingos on Lago Argentino, explore Reserva Laguna Nimez, shop artisanal crafts & taste calafate berries

On your final day in El Calafate, it’s the perfect time to explore the heart of the town, spot local wildlife and shop for local souvenirs.

Admire flamingos on Lago Argentino

Start your day off at the banks of Lago Argentino (near the El Calafate sign) for the best chance of spotting pink Chilean flamingos. Hundreds of them live at the edges of the lake and often fly closer to the town for the best feeding spots. Why not grab a coffee and relax by the lake watching these stunning birds!

Stroll Laguna Nimez Reserva

For more bird watching opportunities, don’t miss the small nature reserve on the edge of Lago Argentino. Stroll the 3km path through five different natural environments that’s home to an incredible 130 bird species including plovers, hawks, black-necked swans and more.

Bring a picnic to stop and eat at the bird hides along the way and watch the wildlife up close. Expect to spend around an hour in the park that’s open every day of the year. Entrance costs £9 for adults and you can also rent binoculars at the ticket office.

Shop local crafts & explore El Calafate centre

Then head back to the main shopping street, Avenue del Libertador for lunch and souvenir shopping. El Calafate is really rich with artists and crafts people who sell their handmade ceramics, textiles, paintings and more in cosy shops along the high street.

I love finding local art to bring home as a memory of our travels so exploring here was my kind of shopping! There’s a whole lot to see so if you do fancy a little retail therapy, allow an hour or so to explore the main craft market (La Aldea de Los Gnomos) and spots along Avenue del Libertador.

Taste calafate berries

If you haven’t already tried the town’s namesake berry then this is your chance. The local blue-black berries with a slightly tart flavour are often made into jams and other sweet treats. Plus, the legend says anyone who eats a calafate berry is destined to return to Patagonia. If like me, that’s the kind of destiny you’re seeking then head to Heladeria Acuarela to try their calafate berry ice cream or pick up a jar of jam in many of the local craft stores.

Learn about local history at Parque Nacional Los Glaciares

Lastly, if you have time, I’d recommend stopping by the small Parque Nacional Los Glaciares in the centre of town. No, this isn’t the entrance to the famous park, it’s a free small exhibit and sculpture garden explaining some of the history of the national park. Spend half an hour here learning about how Los Glaciares park was founded and the important role it plays today.

Best places to eat & drink

During your stay, you won’t struggle to find somewhere delicious to eat. El Calafate has an incredible range of restaurants, cafés, bakeries and more serving fresh local dishes alongside flavours from around the globe. Here I’ve listed some of my favourites, split out into coffee shops and restaurants.

Best coffee shops & bakeries

Calafate Coffee Roasters

For excellent coffee in a fresh and modern space, choose local roasters, Calafate Coffee. They serve tasty barista quality coffee made with beans from across South America roasted on site for the perfect flavour. You can also grab one of their very popular homemade cookies to go with it – need I say more!?

Café Brown

For the cosiest five star spot, choose Café Brown. Sit back and relax in their warm and sunny space to enjoy barista quality coffee and sweet treats including Argentine alfajore.

Miles Coffee House

For relaxed vibes, outdoor seating options and a good selection of cake, head to Miles Coffee House. This laid back place serves great coffee and a range of pastries, cakes and sandwiches for light lunches.

Waffles Como En Casa

For the best sweet (and savoury!) waffles in town, this is the place to go. With generous portions, super friendly staff and a fresh and clean restaurant it makes a great lunch or afternoon snack spot.

Acuarela Ice Cream & Chocolate

For an afternoon treat grab an ice cream at Acuarela. This popular local spot has plenty of flavours and combinations to choose from so you’re sure to find something new you love.

Calafate Brownies

If brownies are more your thing, you can’t miss this place. With five star reviews for a reason – you’ll find a mouth-watering selection of brownies, cakes and macaroons.

Best restaurants

Pietro’s Cafe $

For tasty Argentinian style pizzas in the heart of El Calafate, Pietro’s is a great choice. They’re open from breakfast until dinner serving Italian inspired dishes alongside Argentine classics. Expect good size portions, friendly staff and a warm atmosphere in this vintage diner style restaurant.

La Tablita $$$

You simply can’t come to El Calafate and not try a traditional Patagonian lamb BBQ. Cooked over an open fire, tender lamb is served alongside potatoes and roasted vegetables with delicious chimichurri and other dipping sauces. La Tablita is one of the top spots in town to enjoy a BBQ and we treated this like an activity in itself and it didn’t disappoint. I’d definitely recommend this quality cosy spot – just be sure to book a table in advance as they fill up!

NINA Pasión y Sabores $$

For excellent quality lunch and dinner at reasonable prices, head to motorbike themed NINA. Right on the main Avenue del Libertador their bright and friendly space is the perfect place to grab a bite to eat and watch the world go by. They also serve great coffee here and on a couple of mornings we headed over to enjoy a croissant and coffee while we planned our day.

Buenos Cruces Pasta Bar $$

For the best pasta in town, head to Buenos Cruces. Tucked down a little street off of Avenue del Libertador you’ll find this welcoming restaurant with an extensive menu and super friendly owners. Just be sure to book a table if you can as it’s very popular!

La Zaina Cocina Patagónica $$

For a more rustic dining experience and menu of delicious Argentine and Patagonian dinners, head to La Zaina. In their antique barn-style open plan restaurant the top choice to go for is the braised lamb with a perfect glass of malbec alongside.

Morrison Restaurant $$

Last but by no means least is highly reviewed, Morrison Restaurant. With friendly staff and a really varied menu of Argentine food from traditional lamb and stews to fish, chicken and vegetarian pasta there’s something for everyone!

Best places to stay

When it comes to where to stay, there’s plenty of choice in El Calafate. Whether you’re on a tight budget or want to treat yourself a little, here are my top picks of hostels and hotels in town.

Budget: Folk Hostel (from £15 per night for a dorm bed including breakfast)

For the best value stay, choose Folk Hostel. Their super clean, fresh and welcoming space offers dorm beds and private rooms with breakfast included. Plus, the location is perfect just 500 metres from the main bus station and under 10 minutes walk to the centre of town.

Mid-range: Cabañas Ventalia (from £63 per night)

For a little more privacy, choose a cosy cabin with a beautiful garden. These incredible value cabins each have two bedrooms, their own kitchen, a living and dining area and garden views. Again, these are also in a great location just 300 metres from the bus station and a short walk to the main cafés, restaurants and shopping.

Luxury: Mirador del Lago Hotel (from £96 per night including breakfast)

For the ultimate luxury, choose one of Mirador del Lago’s beautiful rooms with (as the name suggests) stunning views across Lago Argentino. The stylish hotel is just 300 metres from the centre of town and rooms include a delicious buffet breakfast including fresh omelettes and local treats.

What to pack for El Calafate

As Patagonia is such a unique destination with incredible landscapes and quick changing weather, you might be wondering what to pack. Here are some essentials I’d recommend…

Layers: From wind and rain to bright sunshine and warmer days, as the weather can fluctuate so much from day to night the best thing to pack is lots of layers. Start with breathable base layers and pack light fleeces or jumpers to layer up with an insulated jacket and waterproof on top for the coldest or wettest days.

Good walking shoes or boots: As Patagonia is the home of some of the world’s most incredible hiking and trekking, make sure you’re prepared for the best experience with good quality footwear. I wore my walking boots almost every day while in El Calafate and the surrounding areas because we were either heading out to ranches and glaciers or even just walking tracks through town that were muddy from rain. Choose sturdy walking boots or shoes that are ideally waterproof!

Waterproofs: Speaking of waterproofs, as I’ve mentioned above, expect to have some rain. It might not be a lot depending on the time of year you visit but getting wet at the start of a day of exploring could make you uncomfortable for the rest of the day so be prepared with a waterproof jacket and shoes.

US Dollars: Lastly, it’s key to consider money in Argentina as high inflation means the Argentine Peso is continually being devalued and locals prefer to hold onto US Dollars as it’s more stable. This has lead to multiple exchange rates being created – the one the government sets and then the ‘blue market’ which is usually significantly higher than the government rate. What that means for you is it’s better to bring US dollars to Argentina and change them into Argentine Pesos at local currency exchanges than through the bank or taking cash out there.

To do this, the safest options are sending money from your bank account to a Western Union branch in Argentina that you can pick up the cash from, or by using your credit card as since 2022 many credit card providers have changed their exchange rates to be closer to the ‘blue rate’. Just be sure to check before you travel as it could save you a lot of money. To learn more about this – I’d recommend reading this more in-depth blog on money in Argentina here.

How much a trip to El Calafate costs

Now, your final question is probably – that all sounds incredible, but how much is it going to cost? Generally speaking, Patagonia is more expensive than the rest of Argentina or Chile – it’s more remote, it’s more extreme and in many cases you’ll need guides or experts to help you explore. That being said, there are plenty of ways to cut the cost and keep your trip on the more affordable side if you’re working with a tighter budget.

If you’re happy to stay in dorm beds and cook more of your own meals then expect to spend around £300 – £350 in four days. If you want your own cabin, to have more meals out and splurge a little more on activities then expect to spend £500 or more. I think overall the key thing to remember is it’s likely this is the only time you will ever visit El Calafate so it’s worth splurging a little on activities and instead cutting back in other areas.

That’s a wrap on my ultimate tried and tested itinerary for a once in a lifetime trip to El Calafate. I have some of the best memories from my trip here and I hope you’ll make some brilliant ones of your own. If you have any questions about visiting El Calafate or wider Patagonia, please drop them in the comments box below and I’ll do my best to help.

Happy travelling!

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